How To Paint Plastic Door Panels

I've noticed there's quite a number of posts out there with regards to painting the interior pieces (some of have even gone equally far as changing the whole interior color outright i.eastward from that wearisome grey to that nice blackness nosotros all lust after!) Only in that location are those who are weary of painting interior pieces due to fear of fading, dandy, peeling etc...

I'm hither to convalesce that fright

I'm going to outline step by step, the PERFECT way to paint whatsoever plastic interior piece, without the take a chance of flaking, chipping, fading etc..(may also apply to exterior pieces e.thousand lip, mouldings etc...)

This is a simple, fool proof process that I myself have used many many yrs agone on a Grand Am I used to drive, when I decided I couldnt stand that beige vomit color interior anymore! I painted it a 'specklestone' texture (hella cool back in those days), and anyone who ever entered the motorcar was ever 'touchy feely' with my dash and doors (because it had that 'texture'). The end was never compromised, no matter how many times people "caressed" information technology. The 'speckle' blanket wasn't attempted past many (unremarkably information technology was left for particular shops to do) only because of its sensitive nature to flake and chip. Well mine didnt, and if my method worked on touch sensitive "specklestone", it'll definately work for regular flat based spray paints.

There's absolutely no reason why a flat based spray painted interior should peel or flake IF the task was handled correctly and delicately!
*Note* Unfortunately, although I was proud of my results and would beloved to show it off, I cant observe the pics I took waaay back so...HOWEVER, I am going to be painting some interior/exterior pieces in my 2G shortly. In that location'due south some interior pieces that I'd similar to emphasis in Blackness; too, I'm hoping to fab up some microsuede inserts for the doors and a carbon cobweb overlay for the radio/hvac bezel.
All in due fourth dimension....and I promise I'll post pics to follow ;-)

Here Goes....

***Before nosotros start, information technology is imperative that the steps are followed to the tee!! More often than not, I've seen painted "handywork" that looked like ass (you see it in the Mustang forums all the time) only because people tend to blitz when painting. They only wanna get information technology painted so they tin can throw it back on. This is a no-no....if you desire a flawless job, time is crucial.

*FYI* In terms of production quality, I've had bang-up success with SEM pigment products. Hands downwards, their prep and awarding products are awesome! You can use others, but IMO, the SEM stuff proved to be the best. (And believe me, I've tried em all...Krylon, Tremclad, Duplicolor etc...)

Too, try to paint (and go on the paint cans) in optimal temps i.e room temp or higher up

**PREP ITEMS**

- Plastic Precleaner- (if y'all deceit find this, rubbing alcohol, or mineral spirits works fine. Besides, merely use a degreaser on pieces that are extremely dingy, greasy, oily or have been treated with protectants i.e armor all and such. After degreasing, and so clean them with plastic precleaner or rubbing alcohol, as the degreaser tends to get out behind a residue that obscures bonding)

- Wet Sandpaper - 800 dust (for plastic) and 1500 grit (for vinyl)

- Tape - (in example you need to mask sure areas)

**SPRAY ITEMS**

- Paint- (if it'southward plastic, buy plastic paint. If vinyl, make sure its vinyl pigment, merely considering that paint contains certain elements that adhere better due to vinyl's flex properties)
Also, up to y'all whether you desire a matte or glossy finish. Most paints also come in satin. IMO, satin works best as it is a matte finish with a nice sheen to information technology. Ordinarily the paint cap gives a proficient indication of the type of stop.

- Primer- (whatsoever indoor/outdoor plastic primer will practise)

- Adhesion Promoter - (comes in an droplets)

- Articulate Glaze - (again, comes in glossy or satin finish. Go satin. Unless at that place'southward a particular piece y'all wanna blind your passengers with)

Stride 1
Remove any pieces to be painted (pretty obvious...just makes information technology easier to clean and paint; and if you can, take the slice sit down on something so its to a higher place ground. If its suspended, you tin can get a overnice even spray all around, top to bottom)

Pace 2
Wash the pieces thoroughly in soap and water. If extra dirty, oily or greasy, use a degreaser (brake cleaner volition work). Dry everything nicely, and finally rub em down with the plastic precleaner (or rubbing alcohol) Concluding dry with a clean cloth.

Pace 3
*Important* If it'southward plastic, you're going to LIGHTLY sand the pieces with 800 dust moisture sandpaper. Make sure that both the piece and the sandpaper are constantly wet. Utilise no force or pressure, allow the wet sandpaper do the work. Utilise round motions, varying the circles over the unabridged surface of the slice. KEEP EM Moisture! AND NO Pressure! This is central to a good moisture sand. As well, keep the sandpaper clean from plastic build-up; that build-up can and will scratch the surface. A skillful idea is to wrap the wet sandpaper over a piece of cream or sponge, that manner you lot dont exert also much hand pressure level, and it'll sand over contoured areas nicely! But if you're like me, and y'all wanna "feel" your work, so using your bare hand is fine too, but Go on It WET, CLEAN, AND NO PRESSURE!
Rinse the piece when finished....dry thoroughly.

*Annotation* For vinyl, same process, only utilise 1500 grit. You'll discover there'due south vinyl on the door, armrest, nuance.

Pace four
Apply the adhesion promoter, but first, Milkshake THE CAN! If the characterization says to shake for a minute, yous better damn well do it! You want the adhesive chemical solvents in the tin can to be nicely blended so you lot get a nice compatible coat, just waiting to be primed! Apply information technology the same manner yous would paint: light, even, side to side coat. With the adhesion promoter, one glaze is sufficient. Be carefeul here, considering one too many coats, and this stuff will gunk upwardly on the surface. Allow it dry out
*Annotation* Depending on the make of adhesion promoter you buy, its a good idea to follow the 'drying' guideline on the can before the next step. Some cans will say after 30 min it's dry...others perhaps 90. Follow the can!

Step five
*Important* Apply the primer, merely first, Milk shake THAT SUCKER Up! Once again, same concept, you want the paint pigments nicely composite for uniform quality. Shake before, and during. Spray ane, overnice LIGHT glaze (And I hateful light! Dont become crazy!) Wait about an hour....spray the second dainty LIGHT coat. Ii coats should suffice hither. If you still need more coverage (you shouldn't...but hey), await almost another 60 minutes, spray a 3rd, Low-cal coat.

AFTER YOUR LAST Glaze OF PRIMER, Await AT To the lowest degree 24 HOURS Before PAINTING!

I'thousand being anal about light coats and waiting 24 hours? You bet! The better the primer adheres to the surface, the better the paint will adhere to the primer.

*Note* In between coats, its a very skilful thought to turn the can upside downwardly and spray until clear gas comes out. WHY? Well the can volition tell you it'south and so the nozzle wont clog, however, the more of import concept for this is that at present when you go to spray glaze #2, there might be dried paint obstructing the nozzle pathway, hence creating a "splurting and sputtering" of paint, thereby ruining that squeamish uniform smooth terminate you obtained from coat #1.

Step half-dozen
Yous waited 24 hours right? Time to paint! But guess what? Milkshake THAT DAMN CAN! Shake it while you paint! Same concept: nice, Calorie-free side to side motion. We're gonna add 3 coats here, and it's this step that makes it or "flakes" it for the pigment. After your 1st coat, I recommend at least an hour...if you can wait more than, fifty-fifty meliorate. With the base coat, ample drying time is crucial. Also, your method in applying the paint ultimately affects the finish result. So again, 3 coats....wait a good while betwixt coats...and continue em LIGHT! AND...between coats, invert tin can and spray!

WAIT 24- 48 HOURS BEFORE APPLYING CLEAR COAT

Step 7
Clear coat time. You're shaking the can correct? With the clear, 2-3 coats should suffice. Same concept as higher up...nice, uniform and Lite coats! With the clear, you dont have to wait equally long, about one-half hour or so is good. As long as you keep the coats Lite. Let everything cure for an additional 24 hours before handling and putting back in the auto.

**Boosted notes**
With the freshly painted surfaces, I wouldn't apply whatever cleaners on em for at least a week or two. As a thing of fact, I wouldn't use cleaners on them period! Reason beingness is most dash cleaners incorporate alcohol based solvents such as n-propoxypropanol, propylene glycol ether (for glass) and isopropanol. Most will contain 2 out of 3 alcohol based solvents, which if used on occassion, can deteriorate the clear coat, eventually leading to paint fade.

Good ol fashion soap and h2o will do...unless at that place'southward a stubborn stain that needs removing. If you gotta utilize cleaners, you should Absolutely protect the surface with a protectant subsequently.

You should exist using a protectant anyhow, as nigh contain the UV inhibitors to prevent fade.
A good thing to expect for is protectants that comprise lanolin and natural moisturizers...and if non, then water based silicone is fine too.

Keep in mind that the pieces y'all chose to paint are just that...PAINTED! Actress care is required for these pieces, unlike the factory ones which are dyed (and even those tin fade)

So in the end, practise good "carkeeping". Hope this commodity helps with anyone's interior transformations!

*** admin edit - added some links to products mentioned in the mail ***

Source: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/absolute-proper-way-to-paint-plastic-vinyl-interior-parts-for-the-diyer.365304/

Posted by: ammonsinho1956.blogspot.com