banner



How To Paint Fine Details On Miniatures

Author Bulletin Advert
Forum adverts like this ane are shown to whatever user who is not logged in. Join united states of america by filling out a tiny 3 field form and yous will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a skilful range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts similar this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Total tracking of what you have read so you lot can skip to your start unread post, easily see what has changed since you lot last logged in, and easily run across what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads yous desire to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a fellow member then feel free to login at present.
Made in us
Morphing Obliterator

what's the pull a fast one on to painting really fine details? I'm specifically thinking of things similar borders on cloaks, lettering and such but i guess this applies to any freehand particular. here are a couple examples of what I mean, courtesy of CMON:

http://world wide web.coolminiornot.com/80935?browseid=2139892
http://world wide web.coolminiornot.com/299226

I've tried using tiny brushes, simply the paint (which I generally thin 1:1 with a water/flow-assistance mix) often dries out on the tip earlier I even arrive to the model. if I use a castor with a bigger abdomen (due east.g., a raphael 8404 size 0 kolinsky brush) and a practiced tip, I end up applying manner as well much pigment. if I add retarder to the paint, it thickens and I don't get good menstruum off the brush. I haven't tried re-thinning the pigment after adding retarder on the supposition that information technology would forbid the retarder from working.

aside from a steady manus, what's the secret(s)?


Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut

Emperor'southward Tears.


Flinty wrote:
Yous could ever only strap SPACE MARINES to the arms and SPACE MARINE the Space MARINES!!ane!1111

Made in us
Fully-charged Electropriest

Portland, OR past way of WI


really small brushes

equally you can see they get really small

attempt a thinner mix on your paint too

I hear some people love using window cleaner, the blueish stuff

This message was edited i time. Terminal update was at 2012/07/11 02:22:fifteen



3000+
Death Visitor, Converted Space Hulk Termies
RIP Diz, We will never forget ya blood brother

Made in us
Boosting Black Templar Biker

Effort using acrylic ink instead of pigment.


Made in us
Morphing Obliterator

acrylic ink? is that the aforementioned thing as the inks that are used for washing & glazing?


Made in us
Boosting Black Templar Biker

Yes, information technology's the same ink used to make washes and glazes. I use The Daler Rownley FW inks to practice fine line freehand markings.


Made in ph
Utilizing Careful Highlighting

A modest brush, lack of caffeine and sugar in your veins, patience, steady hands and drawing skills.


Made in us
Nigh Glorious Grey Seer

Super small item brush, thinned paints (using acrylic thinner, non water), and a steady paw. Having lots of practice is a proficient idea, likewise.


Made in us
Morphing Obliterator

@heavybolter: thanks for the tip on the inks; what makes them better for detail piece of work and so regular paint across them being thinner? slower drying fourth dimension? rubber to apply with a standard brush?

@breotan: I've not heard of acrylic thinner before. how does that change the behavior of the paint vs. thinning with a water/menses-assistance mix?


Made in us
Chalice-Wielding Sanguinary High Priest

Arlington TX, but want to be dorsum in Seattle WA


No affair what color you ultimately want to achieve, get-go with a colour that is similiar to the color you are painting on. This give y'all a way to control mistakes better and alloy them dorsum into the primary colour. Employ small-scale brushes....I like to use a 18/0 princeton brush....never fails me. You accept to have extremely adept care of the tip though, and then designate this brush but for features like eyes, lips, lettering, designs, etc. And finally, keep your paints sparse....always continue them thin when painting details, this gives you more than control. To sparse downwards citadel paints, I but add together equal parts h2o and keep my paint on a slice of loose tile I picked up from home depot for 36 cents. Personally I prefer that over a wer pallete. All-time of luck!

--oh and i other thing, buy yourself some brush cleaner and an fine art store for acrylic paints.....keeps your brushes in meridian shape. Its amazing the geniuses at GW ahvent started marketed this production still....simply they should for the players who stay centric to GW products.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2012/07/12 18:eighteen:41


4250 points of Claret Angels goodness, sugariness and silky W12-L6-D4
1000 points of Teil-Shan (my own scheme) Eldar Craftworld in progress
800 points of unassembled Urban themed Imperial Baby-sit
650 points of my exercise-it-yourself Tempest Guard
675 points of Commoraghs finest!

The Dude - "Jackie Treehorn treats objects like women, man."

Lord Helmet - "I bet she gives great helmet."

Made in us
Morphing Obliterator

@Element206: cheers, skilful info at that place. brusk of changing my castor, I'm doing all that already, then maybe that'due south something I should await at (using a different castor).

thinking on information technology more, I wonder if it has annihilation to do with the colors I'm using (GW skull white and GW chaos black, mostly). skull white is pretty chalky, even when thinned, and information technology dries on the tip of my brush in a heartbeat. is GW's new ceramite white whatever better about that?


Made in us
Using Inks and Washes

A few things I've just discovered:

The Optivisor. Though this takes you to another level of dorkyness, I'thou assuming we're all comfortable with this or nosotros wouldn't be here? Non only does it magnify 2-3 times, but my mitt completely steadied upwards when I painted with information technology. It was strange, but I can now paint eyes, edges, and other tiny details. This wasn't the example for my magnifying drinking glass, which (since information technology was a unmarried lens, not two) was very difficult to get the depth perception down correctly. Irritation with the failed results from the magnifying drinking glass kept me away from the Optivisor for awhile. Bummer, that!

Take you looked into very fine (<1mm, some get quite minor) tipped pens? Endeavour an art store and see what they've got for very, very small tips. I utilise those for pupils, and painting "writing" on purity seals, scrolls and whatnot. You can also drag one along grooves in models to blackline between armor plates, satchels and belts, and other features yous want to emphasize. I've been very pleased with the results I've gotten from the tiny pens I've picked up.

Automatically Appended Next Postal service:
PS I've had a fiddling problem with paints drying up too - I've just thinned the paint out, and using the Optivisor (no, I don't own stock in Optivisors...) I get it applied quicker, earlier it dries upwards

This message was edited 1 fourth dimension. Final update was at 2012/07/12 19:xv:49


I play...

Sigh.

Who am I kidding? I only paint these days...

Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut

Micron pens. They volition cost you through the nose, simply they exercise the play a trick on. remember to seal when finished.


15 successful trades equally a buyer;
sixteen successful trades as a seller;

To glimpse the time to come, you must wait to the past and understand it. Names may change, merely man beliefs repeats itself. Prophetic insight is nothing more than profound retrospect.

It doesn't matter how bloody far the apple tree falls from the tree. If the apple fell off of a Granny Smith, that apple is going to grow into a Granny bloody Smith. The only difference is whether that apple grows in the shade of the tree it fell from.

Made in us
Stern Atomic number 26 Priest with Thrall Bodyguard

i draw my freehand designs on the mini with a pencil first...
way easier to commit with the brush when yous have a guide to paint over...

i use a Raphael (series 33 i think) 00 for all my detail work, and information technology does keen...
the pigment doesn't dry quite as fast on the tip as it will on a smaller castor...
i basically paint the whole mini with only two brushes, a two and a 00, plus a GW fine item brush for my metals...
all 3 have sharp, direct tips, which makes all the deviation...

if you are doing freehand with black and white try painting the first layer, afterwards sketching on the blueprint, in brown or grey...
that way if y'all make a mistake it'due south easier to cover up...
there will be mistakes, and the patience to tidy them up is the well-nigh essential part of good freehand painting...

thank you
jah


Paint like ya got a pair!

Bachelor for commissions.

Made in th
Brainy Zoanthrope

I have never tried to exercise anything to that level of crawly but you could try oil paints. They have a much longer working time.

Made in us
Chalice-Wielding Sanguinary High Priest

Arlington TX, but desire to be back in Seattle WA


varl wrote:thinking on information technology more, I wonder if it has anything to exercise with the colors I'm using (GW skull white and GW chaos black, generally). skull white is pretty chalky, even when thinned, and it dries on the tip of my castor in a heartbeat. is GW's new ceramite white any improve about that?

Ive never had a problem with black drying out too quickly, just yes, whatever formula is used to create white is just a solar day ruiner in terms of painting white with a fine brush. The new ceramite is the same way also. That color but coagulates quicker than annihilation else. I know when I paint details I tend to have my lamp pretty close to the model which generates heat and doesnt help the state of affairs.....whats your lighting situation? Likewise, if you want to paint with only also want it to remain useful for more 5 seconds on your brush tip, endeavour mixing it with fortress or codex grey (dont know the new color names) --- this helps me tremendously....then over again, I never pigment with pure white or pure black

Automatically Appended Next Mail service:

pancakeonions wrote:The Optivisor. Though this takes you lot to another level of dorkyness, I'grand assuming nosotros're all comfy with this or we wouldn't exist here?

thanks Pancakeonions --- you lot sir accept earned quote of the mean solar day merits!

evidently in that location are players out there who are in dork denial.....once I was playing with a group of guys at my LGS and I used the term 'nerds' referring to our playing grouping.....immediately some of them stopped kidding around and got serious, they geniuenely acted like I had offended them. ---guess I should have known that adults who play with trivial army men and randomly quote ficticious phrases from a rulebook are not nerds, but hardcore badasses!

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2012/07/12 20:eighteen:55


4250 points of Blood Angels goodness, sweet and silky W12-L6-D4
yard points of Teil-Shan (my ain scheme) Eldar Craftworld in progress
800 points of unassembled Urban themed Imperial Guard
650 points of my do-it-yourself Tempest Baby-sit
675 points of Commoraghs finest!

The Dude - "Jackie Treehorn treats objects like women, man."

Lord Helmet - "I bet she gives great helmet."

Made in us
Boosting Black Templar Biker

varl wrote:@heavybolter: thanks for the tip on the inks; what makes them better for item work and so regular pigment across them existence thinner? slower drying time? safe to use with a standard castor?

@breotan: I've non heard of acrylic thinner earlier. how does that modify the behavior of the paint vs. thinning with a water/flow-aid mix?

They period better than thinned paint. Simply the ink does need to exist sealed afterwards or it can rub off sometimes. Another affair you can try is getting yourself some Vallejo Model Air paint which is super thin for airbrushing already. That with an ultra thin sable castor, something like a x/0 or xviii/0 even. I alternating between inks and model air for that kind of stuff.

i think by acrylic thinner he is referring to acrylic airbrush medium/thinner. It thins without increasing transparency of the pigment. I think it also acts similar an extender the way glaze mediums do.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/12 20:32:36


Made in us
Morphing Obliterator

cheers for all the helpful responses

@pancakeonions: I love my optivizor! one of the best tools I've bought so far... my painting took a huge leap forward after I started using it.

@poda_t: alas, if only they made a micron pen in white... I practice take a blackness one, which I originally got for purity seals. I find that I can paint finer lines than I can describe with it, though, so it doesn't get much utilize now. I've heard about some other line of technical pens (name escapes me at the moment) that you lot can use different colored inks in, but they were quite expensive and sounded similar a major hassle to use.

@jan-joshua: do you detect that it'southward hard to get the paint to cover over the pencil marks? I tried that once to do some lettering on a curl and ended upwardly gouging the base of operations coat a bit then had a hard time getting blackness paint to stick to information technology. may take been that the pencil pb I used was too hard, though (HB, I think)

@Element206: ha, yeah. people playing with plastic ground forces men demand to take themselves less seriously :p regarding my lighting setup, I'm using a couple otlites (17W overhead and 10W off to the side, I recollect). they put out a niggling estrus, merely cipher like most table lamps would. I normally have the model more than than a foot away from them, then heat from the lamps shouldn't be a big effect. ambient room temp might, though, as this room tends to exist warm (75+ F).

@heavybolter: any brand recommendations for an 18/0 castor? I'k more often than not fond of the raphael 8404 series, merely I recollect they only go every bit small-scale as 6/0.


Made in us
Stern Iron Priest with Thrall Bodyguard

hey varl..

i apply a #2 pencil, and gyre the tip around on some scratch newspaper to make a really fine bespeak, and so just lightly sketch a pattern...
you do have to be careful not to gouge the pigment, but i've never had a problem with paint not sticking to the graphite...
the very light sketch is probably the central...

i only carp with the pencil for big or intricate designs...
for scrolls and purity seals i merely wing it...
it'due south just near exercise actually, but so i paint a few hours a solar day so i stay in a rhythm...
i never seem to have success with freehand if i've had a few days off, and usually tackle it afterwards i've done a day or two of less challenging work...
a little confidence goes a long way...

thank you
jah


Paint similar ya got a pair!

Available for commissions.

Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut

Looks like there are some helpful tips in here.
As for getting super fine detail, office of it comes down to the sequence you paint things as well.

I'll add (similar the others) that a loftier quality brush and thinned paint is needed. Not necessarily a tiny brush though, just one with a perfect tip.
I don't use a magnifying glass either when I pigment.

When doing freehand, it helps to know what you can do and can't in terms of cleaning up your work (making the detail effectively) which depends on when you add together information technology to your model and what you have in terms of paint under the freehand already. For example, a shaded and highlighted shoulderpad will be much harder to add freehand over since whatever mistakes volition be very hard to make clean up with the blending under the design.

I have this post hither that talks almost some of these issues: http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/02/freehanding-when-to-practice-it.html

The other function of freehand is NOT trying to paint it as you see it completed.The trick is learning how to break complex designs and shapes down into very uncomplicated lines and shapes that you build up until you take a circuitous design.

This mail service here is a good example of a skull: http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2012/06/how-to-describe-skulls-forge-world-style.html


Made in us
Morphing Obliterator

thanks for stopping in, ron hope the studio'south coming along.

I think we might be drifting a bit... what I originally meant past freehand detail was things similar lettering, ringlet work, decorative borders on cloaks, etc. and not and then much chapter icons or larger, more than complex designs. I understand the mechanics of doing larger designs, but I struggle with the really tiny stuff. that's the bit I'm trying to get help with in this thread.


Made in at
Stealthy Space Wolves Watch

you lot should effort using a wet pallet.

also a pocket-size castor isnt key,its the tip you lot need to worry most.


Source: https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/461475.page

Posted by: ammonsinho1956.blogspot.com

0 Response to "How To Paint Fine Details On Miniatures"

Post a Comment

Iklan Atas Artikel

Iklan Tengah Artikel 1

Iklan Tengah Artikel 2

Iklan Bawah Artikel